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Sep 16, 2008, 07:05 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #1

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Build Log - OBoy! Oberto |

I am making my first effort to construct a fast electric hydroplane and I though I would post some pictures and solicit some advice.
For the hull I downloaded plans for the 1/12th scale OBoy! Oberto from Aztec Models. The plan is to make this a "P" sport hydro running on 4s lipo.
Here are some pictures of the hull under construction. I did find a couple problems with the plans for future reference.
1) The labeling of the left and right sponsons on the top view is backward.
2) The sponson former is about 1/2" too big - it does not fit the bulkheads.
3) The upper deck sheeting over the sponsons did not align properly. I had to split just behind the sponson to get it aligned on the non-trip. (as you can see from the white filled area along the deck)
Once beyond that the boat does go together pretty cleanly. The boat is all balsa with 1/32" sheeting over the running surfaces, non-trip chines and upper surfaces of the sponsons. About the only change I made was the transom. I just couldn't go with a couple pieces of 1/32" plywood for the back of the boat - so now it is 1/4" thick.
The little cloth tab in the nose is to go under the batteries to help lift them out when I add the velcro. When the batteries sit down in the "boxes" there is nearly no room to grab them.
I am just about up to sheeting the upper deck surfaces on the outer edges so that I can work on the removable center section and cowlings.
Attached Thumbnails

- Basic hull 95.4 KB · Views: 85

- Another view 92.6 KB · Views: 49

- ditto 99.3 KB · Views: 46

- and again. 94.5 KB · Views: 67

Last edited by cyberhoops : Sep 16, 2008 at 07:21 PM.

Sep 16, 2008, 07:16 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #2

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Hardware |

Here are a couple shots of where I think the hardware for the boat will be located.
There are two 7.4v 4000mah Lipo batteries tucked up front inside a boxed in area. I am thinking there will be velcro tabs under the batteries to hold them down.
The motor and speed control are the ProBoat brushless motor and speed control. The speed control will be mounted on some kind of raised platform behind the motor to clear the flex shaft and still be close enough to get the wires connected.
I think I have to build some kind of motor mounting plate as well to slant the motor down more than the current angle of the bottom of the boat. That is the biggest question at this point - how to properly install the log shaft and get the right angle on the shaft and motor. (Or even how to properly bend the tube without kinking it.) I am a bit hesitant to hack a hole in the bottom of the boat without knowing what I am doing....
I have the Fine Design hydro hardware kit, which has a strut, rudder with a water pickup, teflon lined tube and flex drive gear.
I may need to cut and extend the on/off switch if I want external access to that at the back of the boat. The wires don't seem to be long enough to reach both forward to the batteries and motor and still get back to the transom. I though about using a Dubro quick switch with water seal through the transom for on/off.
Thoughts and comments are welcome...
Jim
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Sep 16, 2008, 09:39 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #3
Rex R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 880 | you'll prolly want to angle the motor at about 10-15degrees from horizontal(relative to the boat) with a corresponding angle to your stuffing tube. and you'll want a support under the forward end of the motor. hth rex

Sep 16, 2008, 09:58 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #4

j.m.
Don't worry about it!
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 822

Also, your esc might not fit there because the stuffing tube will be going through it in it's current location, or VERY close to it.

Sep 19, 2008, 01:47 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #5

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Decking |

Attached is an image with the decking attached.
The center hatch section is attached with 2 pins in the front and then 4 bolts at the back. The bolt on scheme is from this web page.
Screw Down Hatch
It still needs some fine tuning for the fit, but it is pretty darn close. I guess I will build the cowling now...then worry about how to properly fit in the running gear and hardware.
Jim
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- Decking and hatch 78.9 KB · Views: 45

Sep 19, 2008, 02:12 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #6

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Instructions |

Since the plans you get off the web do not have any building instructions, I thought I would post the construction order that I used.
1) Create a building board 7-5/8” wide by 28” long and 1 1/2” tall. Cover with wax paper
Flat build the right and left sponson frames to insure alignment and that they are rigid and without twists and warps.
1) Attach frame R1, R2 and R3, and the sponson chine to the sponson frame. Start with R3 on the sponson frame, make sure it lines up with the notches and is square. Then locate and place the sponson chine and R1 so that it lines up the leading notches and is also square. R2 then goes in last between R1 and R2.
2) Add the two bottom frames to R1, R2, and R3
3) Attach the non-trip frame 1 to R3,
4) Attach the non-trip frames 2 and 3 to the non-trip support, position them on the sponson to the top edges of 2 and 3 match the top edge of the sponson.
5) Add upper and lower sheeting to the chines
6) Add bottom sheeting to the sponson.
7) Add side sheeting to the sponson
8) Add the turn fin support inside the right sponson
9) Add the top sheeting to the sponson.
Repeat steps 1 to 9 for the left sponson assembly. Note that the downloaded plans have the wrong marking for R1, R2, R3 and L1, L2 and L3.
Hull
1) Tack glue the rear deck piece to the building board. Make four 1/8" holes in the wax paper, put a drop of CA glue in each hole, drop the rear deck onto the wax paper/holes/glue and align it squarely to the building board. The 4 tac glue spots will hold it in place but is easy to break loose later.
2) Attach the outer edges making sure they are square
3) Butt the front bottom sheeting and tip up to meet the outside edge
4) Reinforce the deck joint with epoxy and fiberglass cloth. (Actually I used strapping tape and epoxy)
5) Add front bulkheads and rear transom bulkheads and doublers.
I added 1/4" triangle strips around the inside of the deck bottom and sides.
6) Add the center sections 1 3/4" away from the outside. Add 1/8" square strips to the outside edge. I also added 1/4" tri strip all along the inside center section, offset down by 3/16 so that I could put foam tape around the hatch area as a water seal. I also reinforced the vertical bits of the center section with stapping tape and epoxy.
7) Attach the sponsons to the hull center section. The sponsons extend about 1/8" above the level of the deck and are basically fllush along the bottom. Make sure the two sponson tips are the same height off the building surface.
8) Add the nose block.
At this point I build the battery box area and then added the outer sheeting on the deck. I would probably wait a bit for the outer sheeting until I had all of the gear positioned. I ended up putting on the outer sheeting and building the hatch area, but now I have less access to parts of the boat for adding the running gear.
That is about all the farther I have gotten to this point.

Sep 22, 2008, 07:45 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #7

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Cowling |

I finished up the cowling/hatch, so I thought I would post more pictures.
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Oct 02, 2008, 07:24 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #8

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Painting |

I have most of the interior parts laid out - so I can paint...
Attached are some images of the initial painting, there is still more to do and touch ups... but it is coming along.
The "OH Boy! Oberto" and U-55 lettering was done with liquid mask and then positioning the printed lettering from the PDF plans over the mask and cutting through the paper and mask with a sharp knife.
Jim
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- Masked for green paint 124.5 KB · Views: 32

- More masking for red 111.9 KB · Views: 27

- Red paint 130.4 KB · Views: 26

- Initial paint job 112.6 KB · Views: 55

Oct 02, 2008, 04:30 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #9

Darin Jordan
FE Addict!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 7

Right On! Nice build. Say... you are in Seattle.... Are you familiar with the Puget Sound Fast Electric Model Boat Club?? We race NAMBA FEs in the area... this would make a great LSH boat!

Oct 02, 2008, 07:49 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #10

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

I am familiar with the Puget Sound Fast Electric club... I stopped by the recent race at Mirror Lake to check things out and plan to run at least this boat in next year's season. I might pick up a SuperVee as well so I have more hardware to throw in the water. I am certainly looking forward to some racing!
Here are a couple more pictures as the paint and finishing steps get closer to completion.
Jim
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Oct 02, 2008, 07:56 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #11

AndyKunz
Warbird Flyer
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,939

Darin, you need to show him your fleet of red, white, and green boats!
Andy

Oct 02, 2008, 08:27 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #12

Darin Jordan
FE Addict!
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Renton
Posts: 7

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyKunz Darin, you need to show him your fleet of red, white, and green boats! Andy

It's getting thinner, Andy... I just recently sold my 1/16 Scale '82, and my N2-Mono... I think Jim may have seen them at our last race, however...

Oct 25, 2008, 02:12 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #13

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Just a quick update, but the Oberto did hit the water last weekend for 3 test runs, and the testing proved highly successful.
I tested with an M445 prop and the boat certainly got up on plane quickly and looks pretty fast.
There were several minor adjustments required after the first two runs - like getting a more vertical orientation to the short DSM radio antenna and adjustment of the transmitter servo travel for the rudder. Nothing too major to this point.
I hoped to get some pictures and video, but ran out of battery power on the camera. Hopefully I can get some video/pictures this weekend while doing some prop testing with a data logger to determine amp draws.

Oct 26, 2008, 01:32 AM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #14

cyberhoops
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 95

Pics |

I posted a video on the boat video page... plus here are a couple images.
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- Finally Wet 82.0 KB · Views: 48

- Running 77.2 KB · Views: 58

Oct 27, 2008, 01:15 PM | Report This Post to a Moderator · #15

1428
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 73

cool |

man thats so cool

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